Heavenly Galena

All eyes will be on the skies next weekend during the Great Galena Balloon Race

GALENA, Ill. -- For 20,000 years, things have been, shall we say, looking "up" around here.

The shearing glaciers of the last ice age plowed their way across much of the Midwest -- but missed northwestern Illinois. The result: hills and valleys and bluffs that challenge our notion of the Prairie State.

Much later, those high hills were mined for metals -- in 1826 Galena was named for the technical term for lead sulfide. The little village's economy has ebbed and flowed over the years but these days, the sky's the limit as a tourist destination.

UP, UP AND AWAY: This coming weekend, the main attraction here will be the Great Galena Balloon Race, a gathering of 20 or so afficionados of those giant flying vessels that evoke Jules Verne's Around the World in Eighty Days.

Started eight years ago as a benefit for the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, the balloon events are staged at the upscale Eagle Ridge Resort and Spa, a 6,800-acre golf-focused spread centered by a 225-acre fishing lake.

During most of the year, the Galena On The Fly company offers individual hot air balloon flights, launched from the Eagle Ridge grounds. Aboard the piloted flights, couples have become engaged, been married or renewed their vows, said Milissa J. Beyer of Eagle Ridge.

"It's not really like flying; you're more like floating," Beyer said. Where you'll end up exactly is uncertain. Following the winds at 2,000 to 3,000 feet high, the balloon meanders over the area, pursued by a radio-equipped chase truck and driver. The cost for a 45-minute float is $175 a person.

Guided trips are available during race weekend, but even if you're more of a terra firma type than a Phileas Fogg, just the morning setup and launch can be an attraction. At night, the jets that heat the air to make the balloons rise also serve to illuminate the colorful orbs, creating "dancing globes." During race weekend, tethered rides -- the balloon goes up around 30 feet -- are also available for just $5 a person. It's "a great way for people to see if they want to go on a real balloon ride," Beyer said.

The weekend also features music, a beer festival (tickets cost $20) and child-focused events.

UP THE HILLS: So you're pretty good at that spinning class, eh? A prize pedaler?

Meet Eagle Ridge.

Guests can hit 20 miles of trails on resort mountain bikes that are provided as part of the activity fee included in the lodging rental.

As my Trek bike was being adjusted, I asked the attendant for advice on good trails. "None of them are very easy,'' he warned.

Indeed, those hills and valleys the glaciers missed presented a challenging trip -- not impossible but no leisurely roll along the Lake Michigan shoreline either.

The paths begin easily enough around the golf courses, and most of the trails are paved. But your heart soon will be pumping as you pedal through the thick forests and up some serious inclines. I'll admit it: I had to bail out and push my bike in a few spots but, hey, when my teenage son did the same, I didn't feel so bad.

The hump is worth the effort, though. The views from the top were magnificent. And if you look closely enough, you'll see the area is awash in colorful birds -- I've never seen cardinals look so red. Wild turkeys hide here, and the deer population is maintained at 220 head.

And, of course, what goes up must come down -- just keep your hands ready on the brakes during the exhilarating descent.

UP THE COURSE: With 63 holes over four courses, Eagle Ridge is a golfer's paradise. Immaculately maintained, the links will test any golfer, no matter the skill level.

I'm not much of a golfer, but one reviewer described the main course, the General, as "unrelenting" -- and you don't need to know the difference between a pin and a putter to see that. On one hole, the tee soars 150 feet above the fairway. Some cart paths are built switchback-style to prevent your carriage from doing a tumble.

Golf Digest puts the General in the top 100 public courses in the nation; Zagat, while citing the spectacular vistas, calls it "beautiful but evil.''

The resort offers a number of types of lodging -- from standard rooms in Eagle Ridge's charming inn to individual homes. (Some of the latter are spacious enough to include conference rooms for combining business retreats with fun on the links.) Resort guests get a break on golfing fees: the weekend summer rate at the General is $125 for lodgers while the nine-hole east course is $45 a round.

New this season: on Saturday and Sunday evenings starting at 5:30 p.m. through Aug. 30 at the East Course, a special family rate is available for $10 a person. Everyone must play from the closer Blue or Gold medallions, making the holes 150 to 175 yards long.

UP STREAM: Built by damming Small Pox Creek, Lake Galena limits boats to 10 horsepower craft. And while I gazed over the mirrorlike surface and dreamt of the ultimate in waterskiing, the boat size restriction does keep the lake calm and canoe friendly. All around the lake, fishermen cast for walleye, bass and muskie.

The activity fee includes two hours of easy paddling and as we canoed around cliffs peppered with wildflowers, we spotted a log lined with lazy turtles sunning themselves.

We paddled nearer for a closer look; the critters reluctantly dove into the water -- though they continued to spy on us by peeking their heads -- up, of course -- from a thick floating carpet of lily pads.

Andrew Herrmann is managing editor at the Sun-Times.